Valve Cummins Horsepower road blocks. It has been almost a year since we started this series, discussing how to make 5. The more we talk to people, the more ways we find in getting to various horsepower levels.

It is amazing that a diesel can reach . A gasoline can reach .

How to Replace the Fuel Injectors on a Cummins 24V. Park the vehicle and allow the engine to cool. Open the hood. Place a step ladder in front of the vehicle to reach. Let's face it. Deep inside all of us, there's a little something that calls to us. It's a practical and simple yearning to simplify and get back to basics.

For a diesel, it isn't just a matter of switching to a different component that makes the difference; it could be going in a completely different direction. Never is this more true than with the 2. Cummins built between 1. In 1. 99. 8. 5 when Cummins switched from the 1. VP4. 4 (electronically controlled) and made a few other minor changes. This marked Cummins' first voyage into the electronic diesel engine in the light duty truck market.

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In the aftermarket, this pump is loved and hated. In recent years, companies have started investing time and money in the research and development of this pump. The results include quite substantial flow increases.

From the factory, the engines were rated at 2. The high flowing aftermarket VP4.

No. 2 is in reference to using only pump fuel) and more than 1,0. The aftermarket has for many years taken the VP4. The p- pump conversion is the most popular way to reaching high horsepower with a 2. In addition to the differences in injection pumps, you have those that are hard core, diesel No.

Typically these are people who are sled pullers where the rules state no nitrous. On the other side of things, you have those who love nitrous and heavily rely on the additional air supplied by the nitrous to boost the horsepower numbers by 2.

These are typically drag racers who have always been allowed to run nitrous and believe it is a safe, cost- effective alternative. Then somewhere in the middle of the spectrum are the people who believe in adding everything they can.

So they will be adding the propane, nitrous, water/meth, No. We won't be discussing any of those options here, as finding the right mixture is extremely hard and often times massive engine failure results from the wrong combination. We will simply focus on the most common and popular ways. Where you live and what you do determines how you achieve the horsepower you are trying for. So, what we thought would be the easiest engine in this series of stories to write, actually became one of the most challenging. We have worked to compile a list of the most common ways of reaching 5. We can probably write 1.

Then on top of that, you have the different brands that make each component and before you know it, you are probably talking about more than 1. Horsepower. Reaching 5. But thanks to the recent diesel boom which we have all contributed to, it is becoming easier to reach. High- flowing intakes and exhaust systems are necessary and are usually one of the first modifications made by enthusiasts. For 5. 00 hp, a 4- inch exhaust is sufficient and available pretty much anywhere.

To handle the air requirements needed for 5. Either turbocharger is capable of handling the air, but the 6. While changing the turbo, a higher flowing manifold will help reduce backpressure and lower exhaust temperatures. For the fuel requirements, an aggressive programmer teamed up with a fuel box make a great combination. Together they tell the pump to stay on and pump out lots of fuel and adjust the timing to make big power. To take full advantage, the VP4.

So, sending it out to someone like PDR, to have them custom build/modify the pump to flow and support the 5. In order to keep up with the fuel demand from the modified VP4.

A good lift pump will flow a very high volume but do it at a high pressure. On the other side of the spectrum are the injectors. They flow very little (relatively compared to a fuel pump) at extremely high pressure. So, to flow the amount the VP4.

The stock automatic transmission won't handle this type of power very long, if at all. So, a billet input shaft and an upgraded set of clutches will help to hold the power. Depending on the driving habits of the driver, billet intermediate and out put shafts might be a good idea if the driver demands performance at the push of the pedal. A higher stall converter will help spool the 6.

Horsepower. Taking the 2. Many said do a p- pump conversion while others said keep it. For us, we were conflicted. We decided that readers who were interested in doing a p- pump conversion could re- read our 1. So, let's talk VP4. The intake and exhaust systems have already been replaced.

The VP pump will need to be sent out to be converted to a Monster Pump. The Monster Pump flows enough to keep the 3.

With the fuel now available, it is time to move onto air. If the vehicle is daily driven, a good compound setup with a small charger around 6. The factory intercooler isn't designed to handle this much CFM (cubic feet per minute) of air or the pressure it will be flowing at.

Consequently it won't handle it very long. So upgrading to a good aftermarket intercooler is necessary.

Most will support around 1. With the intercooler now able to support the flow, the cylinder head becomes the next restriction.

Cutting the intake manifold off of the cylinder head and having an expert port and polish the head can make all of the difference. Be careful, as many people can port and polish, but few can do it as well as Dealer Machine or other companies who specialize in Cummins' cylinder heads. While the head is off, upgrading the valve springs will help keep the pressure on the valve, which prevents the valve from floating with high boost pressures and/or rpms. In addition, adding a custom cam tuned for your particular use will help direct the exhaust out and fresh air in when you need it.

Once the air and fuel are in the cylinder, it creates a lot of pressure as it ignites. So, upgrading to a high quality head stud is a must. Some experts recommend upgrading to a 1.

With the head back on, a sheet metal intake manifold is used to direct the air from the intercooler back into the intake runners. Horsepower. One thousand hp with a VP4. How To Install Xenon Offline Files 17489. Those that we know of just smile and say it is the same as the 7. Multiple stages of nitrous need to be utilized to help fully burn the massive amount of fuel the injectors inject.

The nitrous also helps reduce the exhaust temperatures which, at this level, could get out of control very quickly. Lowered compression is usually required. Somewhere between 1. We would also suspect the pistons have been ceramic coated to help handle the heat. ARP 6. 25 head studs are strongly recommended. The rest of the modifications that are needed, or rather tricks, well, who knows but the select few who have done it? Source: Dealer Machine.

Farmboys Dieselwww. Texas Diesel Powerwww.

How to Replace the Fuel Injectors on Cars by Contributing Writer; Updated June 1. You can replace the injectors in your 2. V Cummins diesel engine yourself. Whether you are replacing your injectors with replacements or upgrading to increase horsepower, you can complete the job in a couple hours. Diesel performance companies offer a wide range of horsepower- increase injectors for a reasonable price. These injectors allow more fuel into the cylinder to increase power.

Adding injectors should be combined with a larger exhaust to avoid over- heating the engine. Under The Hood: How to Replace Fuel Injectors in Ford Mustang 3. Removal of the Fuel Injectors. Remove the air filter housing and the flexible hose attaching it to the throttle body. Then remove the upper intake by disconnecting the throttle cables and any coolant or vacuum lines.

This will give you access to all the upper manifold bolts. Pull out the upper manifold bolts and upper manifold, and set them out of the way. Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors. Do this by first inserting the fuel line disconnect tools into the ends of the connectors to release the connectors; twist while pulling to slip the end of the fuel lines from the injector rail. Then unplug the injector electrical connectors by removing the retaining clips and pulling the connector from the injectors.

Unbolt the injector fuel rails from the lower manifold, and pry up on the rail to release the rail and injectors. Once the bolts on the rail are removed, the only thing holding the injectors in the manifold are rubber O- ring seals that may have become stuck over time. Make sure to remove the old seals if they stick to the manifold, as the new injectors are supplied with new seals. Remove the injectors from the rail by removing the retaining clips and twisting while pulling until they pop loose. Be sure to keep the retainers as new ones are not usually supplied with the injectors. Installation. Install the new injectors in the fuel rail by applying a small amount of silicon- based grease, and twisting while pushing in. Then reinstall the retaining clips, and rotate the electrical connector into their proper orientation on the rail.

To put the fuel injectors into the manifold, apply a small amount of silicon grease to the rubber O- ring seals and position the injectors into their openings in the manifold. Then press down to push the injectors into place inside the openings, and reinstall the fuel rail bolts. Next, plug the fuel lines in until you feel them snap into place, and then plug in all the injector electrical connectors. Remove the old upper to lower manifold gasket, and position a new one on the lower manifold. Then sit the upper manifold carefully into place and start all the bolts. Tighten in a pattern beginning in the middle and working outward to the ends of the manifold.

Reinstall any vacuum lines and coolant hoses, and top off the coolant. Then return the air filter housing and flexible hose. Prime the injectors by turning the ignition key off and then on again three or four times; then start the engine. Check for any fuel or coolant leaks, and test drive the vehicle if no problems are found. Items you will need.

Screwdrivers. Pliers. Metric wrench set. Fuel line disconnect tools.

How to Replace Fuel Injectors in a Buick V6. Removal. Bring your Buick to a complete stop. Disengage the engine and open the hood. Allow engine to cool. Remove the negative battery cable by loosening the cable clamp with a wrench.

Move the cable to the side. Look at the top of the engine fuel manifold cover and see a round port with the fuel pressure valve in it. It resembles the valve stem you would find on your tires.

Attach a fuel pressure gauge. The pressure gauge is equipped with a release valve and an overfill hose. Put the hose into a fuel container and open the release valve to let the fuel out. Close the valve and detach the gauge. Remove any covers that may be blocking access to the top of the engine.

Remove the fasteners with a ratchet and socket. Loosen the clamps of the air intake pipe on the throttle body.

Use a screw to loosen the clamp and pull the hose off. Disconnect the cables for the cruise control (if equipped) and throttle cable. Use a small pry tool to pop the cables off. Then follow the cables back to the brackets holding them to the upper intake manifold. Remove the bolts retaining the brackets with a ratchet and socket. Inspect the upper intake manifold and take a note of any hose or electrical cable attached to it. Use some tape and a marker to tag them for identification.

Detach the items. Electrical connectors need to be squeezed and pulled to be removed.

Remove the bolts retaining the EGR valve and the MAP sensor valve with a wrench. Pull both valves from the engine. Tag and number the spark plug wires and then pull them from the spark plugs by pulling on them with your fingers. Remove the mounting bolts of the upper intake manifold with a ratchet and socket. Pull the manifold from the engine and set it on a workbench.

Throw any gaskets into the trash. Stuff shop rags into any opening exposed by the removal of the manifold.

Separate the fuel lines attached to the fuel rail manifolds. Use a wrench to loosen the fittings. Wipe up any fuel that may spill. Throw away the o- rings. Tag, label, and disconnect any electrical cables from the fuel rail. Remove the vacuum hose attached to the fuel pressure regulator.

Then remove the retainer bolt with a wrench and remove the regulator. Loosen and remove the mounting bolts of the fuel rail with a ratchet and socket. Use your hands to pull up on the fuel rail. The rail will come up and the injectors will come out with it. Pull the retainer clip and the injector will come off of the rail. Throw away all o- rings. Clean the entire area, especially the mating surfaces of the upper intake manifold.

Remove all gasket material. Installation. Lubricate the new injector o- rings with some new engine oil and slip them onto the new injectors. Put the new injectors into the fuel rail and slide the clip on. Push the fuel rail and injector assembly down into the lower intake manifold. Install the mounting bolts and torque them to 8. Attach new o- rings to the rail fuel lines and reconnect them. Tighten the fittings to 1.

Position the new upper manifold gasket and lower the manifold down over. Install the mounting bolts and torque them to 1. Work your way out from the center when tightening. Reattach the spark plug wires according to the labeling you did previously. Push the spark plugs on until they seat. Remount the EGR and MAP sensor valves and tighten the bolts with a wrench.

Reconnect any vacuum hoses or electrical connectors you labeled in step 6. Make sure everything is secure. Reattach the throttle cable and cruise control cable to the throttle body by pushing them on. Reattach the cable mount brackets and bolts with a wrench. Slide the air intake tube back onto the throttle body and tighten the clamp with a screwdriver. Reinstall any engine covers you may have removed and tighten the bolts with a ratchet and socket.

Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery and tighten the clamp with a wrench. Engage the engine and check for any leaks. Items you will need. Wrench set. Fuel pressure gauge. Fuel container. Ratchet and socket set. Small pry tool. New injector o- rings. Engine oil. New injectors.

Torque wrench. How to Replace a Fuel Injector in a Saturn. Removing the Fuel Rail and Fuel Injectors. Relieve the fuel system pressure by removing the fuel cap. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery with a wrench. Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.

Unbolt the two mounting bolts with a socket wrench then remove the regulator. Disconnect the air intake duct by detaching the connector from the intake air temperature sensor then removing the PCV hose from the duct. Unscrew and remove the hose clamps with a flat head screwdriver at both ends of the duct. Remove the EVAP canister purge hose and loosen the clamp for the coolant hose from the hose guide. Remove the hose guide and separate the PCV hose from the valve cover. Set aside the hoses. Unscrew and remove the two nuts from the fuel rail mounting studs with the socket wrench.

Remove the engine wiring harness cover from the valve cover and push it aside. Remove the fuel supply and return lines from the fuel rail by unscrewing the two line fittings with an open- end wrench. Take out the O- rings in the holes and discard them. Unplug the connectors from the fuel injectors by pulling on their locks.

Unscrew and remove the two fuel rail mounting nuts with the socket wrench. Pull out the fuel rail/injector assembly. Free the injector retainers from the small lugs on both sides with a flat head screwdriver. Pull each injector out.

Installing the New Fuel Injectors. Install the new fuel injectors and secure them onto the fuel rail by fastening the retainers back onto the side lugs. Lubricate the O- rings on each end of the injectors with clean engine oil. Insert the fuel rail/injector assembly back into the intake manifold.

Install the fuel rail mounting nuts and torque them to 8. Reconnect each electrical connector to the fuel injectors. Check to make sure they are securely locked on by slightly wiggling them.

Insert the new O- rings into the fuel line holes. Install the supply and return fuel lines onto the fuel rail and tightly screw on their fittings with the open- end wrench. Position the engine wiring harness cover onto the valve cover. Tighten the mounting nuts over the studs with the socket wrench. Follow Steps 4 and 5 in Section 1 to reconnect the EVAP and PCV hoses and the air duct.

Install the fuel pressure regulator onto the fuel rail and tighten its two mounting bolts with the socket wrench. Reattach the vacuum hose to the regulator.

Reconnect the negative cable onto the battery with the wrench. Replace the fuel cap. Start your Saturn and check for any fuel leaks. Items you will need. Wrench. Safety glasses. Socket wrench set. Open- end (combination) wrench set.